Boyaca, Boyaca and the Plaza Church

About 45 minutes outside of Tunja lies the small pueblo of Boyaca.  Nobody will ever confuse Boyaca, Boyaca with New York, New York. This little town has no ATMs, just a couple of restaurants on the highway and some agricultural stores and bakeries.    But it is a must visit site for Tunja expats.  The trip is worth a half day for the drive alone.  Winding through the mountains around Tunja, the views are amazing as you overlook valleys and fields on your way to Boyaca.

Arriving in the town, a quick turn to the town plaza reveals ample parking and the predominant feature of the town, a huge, relatively modern Catholic church towering over the square.   The town of Boyaca itself dates to the early 1600s and the colonial church served the town for several centuries.  But in 1956, its demolition paved the way for the construction of the modern French Gothic cathedral, the completion of which would take almost 50 years.

Adjacent to the church is the curial house, which includes a bookstore, dining areas and offices. When the church is not open, the folks working in the curia can often arrange for visitors to see the interior.   Come to Boyaca with cash in hand and enjoy a coffee and pastry.  Relax in the plaza and take in the beauty of the parish dedicated to Ss. Felipe and Martin de Porres.

From Tunja head to Soraca on 55B. Take the Soraca-Boyaca road to Boyaca.  You will see some small soccer fields and a paradilla on the main road. The plaza and church will be a block off the main road to your right.  The roads are in good condition and you can make the trip without four wheel drive or any special equipment needed.

I first noticed the massive church in Boyaca during a trip from Tunja to Miraflores in 2013 or so. We didn't have time to stop, but I made my mind up to go back and visit sometime. In August 2021, with COVID peaking in Colombia and mask mandates firmly in place, I took my nephew and a rented Fiat and we set out to see this marvel which rises inexplicably over this tiny town.
Scott P.
Editor

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